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Buying Poultry

The United States Department of Agriculture inspection sticker (or tag) guarantees that the poultry was raised and processed under strict conditions according to government guidelines. Grade birds, the most common variety in supermarkets, are the highest quality and are indicated by a shield-

Apple and Thyme Roast Chicken shaped label. More than 90 percent of all broiler-fryers (chickens that range from about 2 ½ to 4 pounds) are marketed under a brand name, a further assurance of quality.

Choose fresh, whole birds that appear plump and have meaty breasts. (Meatier birds are a better buy, because you're paying for less bone per pound.) Chicken parts should also look plump. Poultry skin should be smooth and moist and free of bruises and pinfeathers. The color of the skin can range from creamy white to yellow. It simply depends on the bird's feed and breed and is not an indication of flavor or quality. Generally, tenderness depends on the age of the bird. Broiler-fryers are tender young birds and can be roasted, fried, sautéed, grilled, or broiled. Roasting chickens are bred to be large (about 5 to 7 pounds) but are still relatively tender and are best when roasted. Tough older birds, called fowl or stewing hens, are available in some markets and must be braised or stewed in liquid to become tender.

The term organic is not recognized by the USDA, so it cannot appear on labels. It can be used, however, to promote poultry on store posters, for example. Generally, organic poultry has been raised on organically grown, antibiotic-free feed, which some cooks believe gives the meat richer flavor. Free-range poultry has been raised in a relatively spacious environment that provides access to open spaces but not necessarily an open farmyard. This free movement allows it to develop more muscle, which also contributes to fuller-flavored meat. Organic and free-range birds are more expensive. If your poultry is labeled all-natural, it means it has been minimally processed, but its feed was not necessarily organic and could have included antibiotics to protect the bird from disease. All poultry is free of hormones and growth stimulants, which is not true of mass-produced beef.

Kosher poultry has been processed according to kosher dietary laws under the strict supervision of a rabbi. The procedure includes salting, a process that draws out the blood and seasons the meat. If you live in an area that has a Muslim community, you may also see Halal poultry, which has been slaughtered by a butcher of the Muslim faith.

Have you ever bought a fresh bird only to find that the giblets were frozen? Labeling laws have only recently been changed to clarify the meaning of the words "fresh" and "frozen." In the past, because of the high demand for fresh

poultry, birds could be stored at 0°F and still be called fresh. The law has been changed. It now states that only poultry that has never been chilled below 26°F can be called fresh. (Poultry freezes solid at 6°F lower than water.) If a bird is chilled below 0°F, it must be labeled frozen. If the label says neither fresh nor frozen, assume the poultry was stored at a temperature between 00 and 26°F, then thawed before sale, which explains those frozen giblets. Lastly, the ends of the bones of fresh poultry should be pinkish white. Red bone tips indicate the bird was frozen.

Buy fresh poultry according to the "sell-by" date on the package. Remember that the store's refrigerator is much colder than yours, so once you get the bird home, cook it within two days. When you open the package, the chicken may have an unpleasant odor. This is caused by oxidation and should disappear once the bird is rinsed with cold running water. If the poultry still smells unpleasant, return it to the market. Avoid packages with leaks or tears.

If you buy frozen poultry, be sure the meat is rock-hard and without any signs of freezer burn. The quick commercial freezing process should guarantee the poultry hasn't absorbed any water, but check by making sure there are no ice crystals. The packaging should be tightly sealed and intact. Frozen liquid in the bottom can mean the bird was thawed and refrozen.

 
         
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