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Choosing Eggs

Eggs are sold by size and grade as defined by the United States Department of Agriculture. The grade is based on many factors, including the appearance of the shell, the quality of the interior of the egg, and the size of the air pocket at the cop of the egg (usually determined by candling, a process in which the egg is held against a strong light to illuminate its interior). Grade AA eggs have firm, high yolks and thick whites; they are best for frying, poaching, and cooking in the shell. Grade A eggs have thinner whites and are fine all-purpose eggs that are good for baking. Grade B eggs, which have the thinnest whites, are rarely available to the consumer; they are usually sold to food manufacturers. The chalaza, the thin white cord that attaches the yolk to the shell, is especially prominent in a very fresh egg and disappears as an egg ages. (When making custard, you may want to strain the custard to remove the chalazae, which tends to become hard when cooked.) The size of an egg is determined by its weight. Eggs are graded jumbo, extra large, large, medium, and small. All of the recipes in this book use large eggs unless otherwise noted. Using the right size egg is important, especially in recipes that call for a large number.

An eggshell's color is determined solely by the breed of hen. Cooks in the Northeast often prefer brown eggs, but they are no different from the white variety. It is important, however, that the eggshells be clean and uncracked; never buy cracked eggs. Before purchasing eggs, move them in the carton to make sure they haven't cracked and stuck.

 
         
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